Tag Archive: DikDik

1. Day 6: Very Busy Day

   June 14, 2012 10:00 AM 3 Comments

   Kapanya asked us to be ready at 8 am, but when we asked him what the day had in store for us the only information he would provide was the phrase, “Oh this will be a very busy day.” We all discussed our notions of what a busy day might be for us as opposed to for Kapanya. Here’s how it went.

   First all of us loaded onto a little bus that is traditionally used as public transportation. Our first stop was to visit Kapanya’s daughter Linda at her school. Cindy and I brought presents for her and now was the time to present them. I was so happy to be able to meet Linda and give her a big hug.

   

   A book bag for Linda. This was the best hug ever!

   Next we drove along very bumpy dirt roads to another school. This time it was the school where Kapanya teaches classes in ornithology. We got to meet his class of students, and we got to witness his leadership in action as he talked to his students about our trip and encouraged them to work hard so that they could have opportunities to share their knowledge with others. Each of us got to talk to his students and tell them why education was important. It was such a treat to talk with them and share information about their studies.

   

   Talking with Kapanya’s students.

   We left the school and drove along some even more primitive roads until we came to a large grassy clearing with several trees. We had some real fun playing with 2 boys who wanted to look at our iPhones. Their big smiles charmed us as we showed them how to take and view pictures. Soon we went into an official building and signed a register, as we waited to meet the President of the Ward, who gave us a tour and told us about the history of the “Peace Trees” where tribal leaders came to settle disputes.

   

   Ward President giving us information about the Peace Tree.

   And if you can believe it, our day was not over. Our next stop was at the family home of our guide Neema. We were so graciously invited into the family compound to view the many goats, cows, and chickens within its walls. Then Neema’s parents invited us into their living room, where we sat and talked about the impact of Neema’s career on their lives. Kapanya indicated that there are very few female guides on Kilimanjaro, but when he first took Neema to the summit, she smiled all the way to the top and that was how he knew she was ready for the rigors of the mountain. Since that first trip she has done several guiding expeditions, and this has allowed her to purchase furniture and other items for her family home. We learned that after the 8 day climb to the summit of Kilimanjaro, Neema would leave for a 3 month internship as part of her studies to become a mechanic. As we all headed back to the bus, we got to meet Neema’s 95 year old grandmother, who greeted us warmly and looked ready to hike the mountain herself.

   

   Kapanya and Neema’s 95 year old grandmother.

   So do you see what I mean about the busy day? Well, just wait because it’s not over. When Kapanya says you’re having a very busy day, you are seriously having a very busy day. Our next stop was Kapanya’s house, where we were greeted by Doctor Frank and Susan, some American ex-pats who climbed with Kapanya and never went home. After their trip to Tanzania, they started a free clinic outside of the Ngororgoro Crater. You can read more about their clinic, and make a donation, at http://www.fameafrica.org

   After a chat and a wash-up, we sat at the table in Kapanya’s front room and some of the camp crew we would get to know so well on the trek started bringing in plates of cinnamon rice, chicken, plantains, and salad. Then, we were all wowed when a group of men brought in the “wedding cake.” What an amazing honor, since Kapanya had arranged to offer our party a whole goat. This is enjoyed after the meal, and is reserved normally for the most special occasions. Larry and I were asked to serve it, as the eldest and youngest members of our group. We had our tastes, then the rest of the crew enjoyed this highest delicacy and honor. Then we watched as the crew started gathering all the items for our hike departure the next morning.

   Now that’s a busy day.

   

   Traditional Wedding Cake.

2. Day 5: Rest Day at DikDik

   June 12, 2012 10:00 AM 4 Comments

   Our fifth day of the trip, our second day in Africa, started with breakfast on the porch of the DikDik hotel overlooking the beautiful grounds and swimming pool, and watching velvet monkeys hop in the trees. I was grateful for a “rest day” and I did have a brief nap, but I would soon get a taste of what I was really in for on this trip: the powerful pull and unprecedented energy of Kapanya Kitaba. It’s best to learn right away that Kapanya is more than a mountain guide. He is a true teacher and leader. So here’s how it went.

   First Kapanya came to the hotel to give us a briefing on the climb. We sat for about 2 hours grilling him with questions and pouring over maps. This would be Kapanya’s 159th summit of Kilimanjaro. I was thinking he must have answered these questions so many times, and yet he was patient with us, and funny too. And were were obsessing over every last detail.

   Then Kapanya said, “Let’s go for a walk.” We must have seemed like silly Mazungas as we sifted through our mounds of gear trying to find the “perfect” clothing and equipment and anything we might need for our stroll.

   We walked down the driveway of the hotel while gaping at the monkeys and taking 50% more pictures than the scene called for. But Kapanya was patient and made sure we got the best shots. He answered all of our questions and pointed out better angles for viewing and taking photos. He would not move the group forward until we had all taken the photos we wanted.

   

   Soon we passed through the hotel gate where a tall, thin Maasai man in traditional garb would greet us with a big smile and “Jambo!” whenever we would come and go. This was the first of many of Kapanya’s “friends” we would meet. And when I say friend, what I really mean is “person whose life has been touched by Kapanya.” We would soon learn more about his influence in the community.

   After a walk down a busy dirt road and many more “Jambo!’s” we entered Usa River Village. Kapanya walked us slowly past the crude structures that passed for homes, explaining to us that the buildings start with dirt and straw, and as a family gains wealth they add materials like tin to the roof. We walked through the narrow lanes as a group of ladies passed Kapanya and gave him a stern message. When we asked what they had said Kapanya told us they asked him why he was showing us this dirty part of the town.

   Later we discussed it and we decided that Kapanya knew us well, and knew that we wanted to experience his village not as clean tourists through car windows, but face to face and hand to hand.